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When curating a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has made the family utterly astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” says a family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small restaurant earning such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary honour.